My HHO Generator Project:

 

Quick note on saftey! 
HHO Gas is dangerous.
If you don't completely understand what you are doing, leave it alone.

On this page I wanted to show the parts of my generator and how it is assembled.

The stainless plate design puts out a LOT of HHO gas. It does of course draw more amps to run than the designs made with stainless wire. The amp load runs from 8 to 28 depending on the level of the electrolyte and the concentration of baking soda in it. I am using distilled water and baking soda at a ratio of 1 teaspoon of baking soda to each qt. of water. Check the column on the right for a coming change in additive from baking soda to Potassium hydroxide for my project.

As the pictures below show, I have the two outside plates as positive and the center double plates as the negative with the double plates between them as neutral.

From all the reading I did on the web about this design it seemed to be important to have neutral plates between the positive and negative for better gas generation. Also the more sq. in. of surface area on your plates the more gas you will generate. Use the largest plate size you can fit into your container. Be careful when grinding or cutting Stainless...a dangerous gas byproduct is given off. Make sure to wear breathing protection in these operations.

The Project Vehicle:
1988 Toyota pickup. 22 RE 4 cyl. engine with EFI.
This vehicle has 310,000 mi. on it.

Progress reports and MPG updates:

The first mpg check I did after getting my generator installed showed an increase from a base of 22 mpg to 25 mpg.

After talking to several of my fellow experimenters I learned that I needed to provide a way for air to enter the generator as the gas is drawn off to prevent a vacuum from occuring which of course would keep me from drawing much HHO gas into my engine's intake.

After adding a one way air valve that allows air to enter but not escape from the generator housing the next mileage check showed an increase from the aforementioned 25 mpg to 40 mpg. This was on a run of 162 mi. and the gas nozzle clicked off at 4.3 gal. when I filled it up. Now I'm getting somewhere.

Subsequent to that, I have experienced a problem with the Positive terminal overheating and melting into the ABS plastic cap. I traced that problem to a loose connection inside the generator on the positive terminal wire. I repaired that, cleaned out the generator and it appears that all is good now. I will post the next mileage check figures that I get now that the generator is back in proper operation.

My next mileage figure was done with 375 mi. covered. The mpg figure was 31 mpg. Down from the high of 40 that I experienced on a run of 162 mi.
I am observing a strong discoloration of the electrolyte fluid after about 180 mi. or so and when I take the generator apart the stainless plates are discolored and seem to have a coating of redish brown color on them. They will clean off with a scrub pad and shine up again but after some miles run the discoloration begins to build up again and the HHO gas production appears to drop off. I believe that is what is causing the drop in efficiency and mpg over a few hundred mile run.

I have ordered some KOH (Potassium hydroxide) to use as an additive to my water instead of Baking Soda to see if that will stop the discoloration of the plates and electrolyte and should lower the amp draw. I installed an amp gauge inside my truck that is connected in the positive wire going to the generator to monitor the amp draw as I drive. When I first turn the unit on it is drawing 10 amps. After I drive a few miles this climbs to 20 amps. As the electrolyte level drops in the container it begins to climb even higher. So far it has stopped before it gets to 30 amps. This is using baking soda, I expect from what I've read that using KOH will lower the amp draw while allowing good electrolytic reaction.

I'll update this page with the results of this change when I get it in and have a chance to run some miles with this new electrolyte. Also I am going to try to rig up a device to see just how much HHO gas per minute this design is generating and will post those results when I get that done.

 

A link to another webpage showing a different approach and design with lots of photos and details.

Performance/Hydrogen Project

 

And a web site with a product that may be an easy answer to the oxygen sensor problem on EFI cars although from reading on a forum dealing with HHO projects that these sensor spacers may not work.

Oxygen Sensor solution

 

Here is some good information to read before you even start a project on an EFI vehicle. It will help you understand what the Oxygen Sensor does and what the Electronic Fuel Injection system does and offers a few solutions to these problems.

EFI

 
Oxygen Sensor info

 

A good forum for information. You can join for free if you want to post or just to read you don't have to join.

Forum


This is the plate assembly. 
I used Stainless steel wall switch plates obtained from Lowe's. The two outside plates I made positive and the center double plate is the negative. The other two double plates are neutral.
The double plates are just two single plates back to back.  
I used nylon all thread which I obtained from a supplier on-line. Nylon All Thread
I ordered the part no. (117) 1/2-13 x 4 Ft Threaded Rod Nylon
I used stainless steel nuts and washers on the assembly. I had read that the closer together the plates are the better so I cut spacers out of an empty plastic qt. oil container and drilled the ½" holes in them for the nylon all thread to go through.

 


Here is a view of the container. 
I used stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts to attach the positive and negative posts to the container cap.
All the connections were sealed with high temp gasket sealer.
The container is made of ABS black plastic plumbing pipe. The bottom is just a PVC pipe cap glued onto the ABS pipe tube. (when I went to purchase the parts they were out of the ABS caps. 50 mi. to the nearest Lowe's so I got what they had while I was there instead of having to make another trip)
I wanted the ABS plastic because it has a higher melting temp than the regular PVC but as it turned out regular PVC would have worked just fine.
The top is a screw on clean out cap commonly used for access to drain lines and it is screwed into a threaded collar that is glued onto the ABS pipe tube.
In this photo the outlet fitting is a straight through but was changed out for a 90 degree L fitting at a later time to allow for a straighter tubing path.
The little tube on the side is merely a sight tube so that the fluid level can be monitored.

 


Next are two views of the plate assembly ready to go into the container with the wires attached.
Notice the outlet fitting has been changed to the aforementioned L fitting.
Also, the depth the plates hang into the container can be adjusted just by stretching the bend in the solid copper wires or bending them shorter.
I set mine to be about a half inch off the bottom of the container. 

 

 


This is the installation in my 1988 Toyota pickup. This truck has the 22RE 4 cyl. engine and EFI. By inserting the HHO gas into the air intake just after the air cleaner and ahead of the throttle body so far I haven't had any issues with the Oxy. sensor.
The Flashback Arrestor is packed with fine brass wool but not so tightly that you can't blow air through it.

Since this picture was taken I have added (on the advice of several more knowledgeable folks than I on this subject) a vacuum relief valve in the top of the canister. This allows the gas to be drawn out of the generator without creating a vacuum which would impede the flow of the gas into the engine.
Also, to add electrolyte when the sight tube indicator shows that it is getting low, you only have to disconnect the large diameter tube from the Flash Arrestor and insert a funnel and pour the desired amt. of new fluid into the container.
A small screw with rubber washer is screwed into the top of the container and this screw is removed when filling to allow the fluid to run into the container and then replaced. I plan to change this for a small air valve that I can just open and then close when the filling is done.

All in all, I am satisfied with this setup. It makes a LOT of HHO gas, is easy to maintain and simple to both construct and install in a vehicle. The design using the cleanout cap has an advantage in that the discharge fitting is up in a recess inside the top of the container so that splashing of electrolyte as you go down the road does not enter the flow tube.

A 30 amp fuse seems to be doing the job so far handling the current draw even when the electrolyte gets down a little bit. However I have learned to keep a close eye on the fluid level and keep it topped off. This unit makes enough gas so that if you drive 60 mi. on the highway at legal speeds it will convert about about 2 cups of fluid to HHO gas. That's a lot of HHO gas being released.

You can contact me at dusty1usa@wb4me.com